Article reprinted by kind permission
of RVers On-Line
 Whether to schedule the ferry trip from Port Hardy to Bella Coola, or from Bella Coola to Port Hardy, is purely a matter of choice. We chose to depart from Port Hardy for two reasons. First, the 350 mile trip from Bella Coola to Williams Lake involved RVing through terrain completely unknown to us, and we wanted to avoid having to pass through that portion of our trip with a fixed commitment to depart from Bella Coola on a date certain. If the area proved worthy of an extra few days exploration, we wanted to have the time to do exactly that. Second, like most first-timers on BC's Highway 20, we really didn't know what to expect of "The Hill" -- the steep grade which seemed to offer a challenge to vehicle and driver alike. The only thing we've ever concluded about steep grades is that we'd rather go uphill than downhill. With hindsight, we think once you've read through the materials that follow you'll have enough information to be comfortable taking the trip in either direction.
There are several different itineraries for the BC Ferries' Discovery Coast Passage route. Some minimize the number of stops en route and also the time required to make the trip. Others include more stops, with an opportunity to explore some of the villages along the route. Our ferry departed Port Hardy at 9:45 pm, spent the first evening crossing the main body of water which separates Vancouver Island from the mainland, and makes a 2 hour stop at McLoughlin Bay the following morning. The ferry landing is adjacent to -- but not a part of -- the native village of Bella Bella. The village has apparently not yet determined how it wants to respond to the influx of new tourists brought here by this new ferry route, and for the present at least has not welcomed tourists into the village.
However, the ferry landing is located where the original village of Bella Bella was first situated. It was here we were introduced to an interesting new native business venture, See Quest, which specializes in introducing visitors to the customs and culture of the aboriginal people. Since the boat makes a two hour stop, a variety of tour options were available. All passengers, including those who chose not to book one of the tours, were welcomed at a shoreside "long house", where the local native tour manager provided a brief overview of the history of the band which lives here. This included a presentation of some of the music of the local culture. It appears this is an entirely new "business" for the local band, and represents as well an effort to diversify job opportunities, since traditional timber and fishing options are diminishing here as well. We found the reception here warm, friendly, informative, and distinctly non-commercial. It was a true effort to communicate the history, traditions, and culture of this interesting native community.
The tours offered included a "walking tour" of the original village site; a water tour by motorboat to view various points of interest in the area, ending at Shearwater -- a scant five miles away and the next stopping point for the ferry; and an option for small groups to paddle authentic looking reproductions of native dugout canoes across the waters from McLoughlin Bay to Shearwater, where the paddlers would rejoin the ferry at its next stop. Another two hours were available in Shearwater for walking the beaches, and exploring the small marina area. Those who had opted to do this ferry segment by canoe re-joined us here. The ferry departed Shearwater in the late morning, and arrived at the native village of Klemtu mid-afternoon. This was a four hour layover, with many passengers opting to take an extensive walking tour of the village, followed by what was reported as an excellent meal prepared by the local village women, and accompanied by entertainment of local dances. Unlike Bella Bella, Klemtu eagerly welcomes visitors. Indeed, there is a hand painted sign at the ferry dock placed presumably by the townspeople proclaiming "Welcome to Klemtu". It seemed that a good portion of the population had turned out to see the ferry land. Walking along the towns quaint "boardwalk", a shoreline structure of perhaps a quarter mile which links one side of the village with the other, it was easy to perceive that this band is extremely friendly to those arriving by ferry. There was always a smile and a greeting when we passed them. These people seemed sincerely pleased to have visitors. And again, there was little hint of commercialism here as well. By now we had the sense we were really on a "discovery" route -- and very likely one of the last in North America.
A word is owing here concerning the outstanding public relations efforts of the BC Ferry system in respecting the wishes of the native villages their vessel now visits. In opening this route into previously seldom visited areas they have been extremely sensitive in recognizing the residents of Bella Bella were not prepared to welcome visitors to the village -- at least yet -- and they advised the passengers accordingly. It was not presented as "they don't like strangers", but rather as "they're still trying to decide on how to deal with the potential implications of so many visitors" -- and explanation we find extremely reasonable. And in the case of Klemtu, which eagerly welcomes new visitors, their policy has been to "open the ship" to the local natives while they're in port there. Thus we'd see whole families walking onto the ferry, strolling around on the various decks, or enjoying a snack from the cafeteria. It was as if it were "their" ship too. This policy seems to have nurtured an excellent relationship between the townspeople and the passengers. We commend BC Ferries for its enlightened and thoughtful policies in dealing with the different needs of the native villages it now includes along this new route. A final stop occurred during the second (and last) night of the voyage. It was at Ocean Falls. While the middle-of-the-night stop on this particular itinerary did not provide an opportunity for us to see it (we intended to -- but slept through!) , we understand this stop (not a native village) has limited overnight accommodations in the form of B&Bs and some type of campground. Reportedly there is a lake behind the town which would be ideal for a car-top boat.
We'd have to make a note for kayakers here: Virtually all of these waters seemed like fantastic areas for kayaking. Indeed, this ferry frequently drops off and picks up kayakers along the mainland side of this ferry route. This would surely be one of the world's great kayaking opportunities for those with the relevant experience and inclination. Namu, a port of call on some of the sailings, is particularly well known for the outstanding kayaking it offers, and we saw some kayakers who had arranged for kayak rentals out of Port Hardy. We've been on a number of ferry adventures in our travels, including multiple trips on the Alaska Marine Highway system. This particular trip, which involves a smaller ferry, fewer cars, and fewer passengers has much more of a "small town" atmosphere. The passengers share a number of new experiences together; and many will meet again and again as they travel east from Bella Coola. And the crew is much more relaxed and "laid back" than on other trips we've taken, all contributing to a casual, friendly ambience. The size of the ferry is not large enough to have staterooms, but there are well over 100 spacious and fully reclining seats. Other travelers brought sleeping bags aboard, and a number set up small tents on the outside decks. All other amenities, including showers, are available on board. Other itineraries offer passengers the option of leaving in the morning on a trip involving minimal stops, and arriving in the late evening of the same day. But it would be unfortunate to miss some of the interesting stops along this "discovery" route.
We found the meals on board both reasonable in price and of excellent quality. While it's referred to as the "cafeteria", the quality of the cuisine we thought was easily a cut above typical cafeteria fare. For instance, on the second evening the crew had barbeques fired up on the outer decks, and did an outstanding job of serving up such dishes as fresh local salmon, and Alberta beef. For us the ferry portion of this intended circle tour ended all too soon. We knew we'd experienced something very special, and very different. We felt very much the spirit of "discovery", for which this route is so aptly named. At approximately 8 o'clock on the second morning, we arrived at Bella Coola on the BC Mainland -- the western terminus of Highway 20, which was to become our next adventure. Continue the adventure... be sure to read: © Text copyright RVers On-Line
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